Terri's Atelier

Butterick 5215

2012-01-26T15:10:00.001-08:00

DSCN2637, originally uploaded by Terri's Sewing Room.

I made this top for one of my friends and it turned out so gorgeous in this fabric, I just had to gush and share:-)

2012 Ice Storm Art

2012-01-20T12:42:00.001-08:00

2012 Ice Storm Art , a set on Flickr.

Beauty amidst chaos... A red curly willow is coated in ice during our recent ice storm. I like ice-bird and ice-woman...

Gorgeous Pinks (Look at the SHOES!!!)

2011-12-03T19:02:00.000-08:00

Look at the shoes!!!!!

Source: polyvore.com via Terri on Pinterest

Completely cool vest!

2011-12-03T17:08:00.001-08:00

Completely cool vest!, originally uploaded by Terri's Sewing Room.

Vintage patterns I am working on.
I didn't know this before I started really looking at the vintage category, but I love the sixties and early seventies...
Discovering this has helped me recognize the deign features I am gravitating to and why.
Very helpful when planning wardrobes!

It also becomes evident when comparing vintage and modern, that some of what are offered as "new" pattern ideas, on the market right now, are truly lifted straight from yesteryear.

Vogue 1107 finished.

2011-11-01T13:31:00.001-07:00

It won a contest and here is a banner they gave me! If you click the banner it will take you to the Pattern Review Blog comments about my entry. If you click on the review from there you can read the actual pattern review for the dress! Thanks again to those who thought this dress was worthy:-)

DSC00758, originally uploaded by Terri's Sewing Room.

All done as of yesterday. Finally got pics on dd. This dress turned out well, but there is obvious excess in the shoulder area between the collar and the sleeve that I am not in love with. It seems to be inherent to the pattern since it is on the profesional picture of the sample too. I still think the dress looks great anyway - :-) Just glad I am finished with it!!! :-) Yay! more pics on my flickr account. Construction of everything from the buttons to the pleat inlays...

Flickr Set

Welt Pockets

Vogue Website for Pattern 1107

Vogue 1107 Ball Buttons

2011-10-29T22:51:00.001-07:00

DSCN2473, originally uploaded by Terri's Sewing Room.

Self fabric ball buttons... whew!

Working on Vogue 1107

2011-10-28T21:58:00.001-07:00

DSCN2461, originally uploaded by Terri's Sewing Room.

Almost done now....

Butterick 3874

2011-10-21T20:08:00.001-07:00

Butterick 3874, originally uploaded by Terri's Sewing Room.

Swoon!

Mollie Parnis Dress 1969

2011-10-19T19:31:00.001-07:00

Mollie Parnis Dress 1969, originally uploaded by Terri's Sewing Room.

What a great dress. Made in modern fabric and hemmed properly this will be FABULOUS!

S3433

2011-10-19T19:30:00.001-07:00

S3433, originally uploaded by Terri's Sewing Room.

A vintage slip ca 1940. So gorgeous and feminine. Cut on the bias, it had a day or evening length.

Two more TDF Vintage from the sixties!!!

2011-10-12T12:13:00.001-07:00

German Simplicity pattern!

My latest obsessions! What I am sewing.

2011-10-11T20:05:00.000-07:00

These are the latest patterns inspiring me and one of my favorite new Vogue dresses. I know it looks plain but I couldn't wait to order it!!!
On sale at the moment.
Vogue 8764

The retro patterns here are so GREAT!
Very Mary Tyler Moore as in the Dick Van Dyke show in the early sixties.
*LOVE*

Sixties suit and overblouse with buttons down the back!

How cute is this? There is an adorable sleeveless top in there too.

Butterick 3007

Look at all the variety to chose from!

Making this one ASAP

OK I must have this in both the featured views. Check out the lining and matching top and the cream version with fur collar!!!

~swoon~

By the way these patterns are easily purchased via ebay or etsy for between $5 - $12

Butterick Retro Dress 5603

2011-08-26T20:52:00.000-07:00

An almost black and white dress...
MISSES' DRESS: Fitted dresses A, B, C with flared skirt, below mid-knee, have lined bodice, princess seams and side zipper. A: bateau neckline with band and bow at upper and lower bodice edges. B: tie wrapped around each shoulder and knotted forms bow. C: bodice crosses at front and back. Purchased petticoat. Sizes 6-20 (I made an 8) This pattern turned out to be really nice. I wasn't sure at first, since it seems retro can be a mixed bag fitting-wise. I was not disappointed! The bust is not too big. In a size 8 with the tiny gathers under the bust it fits perfectly! That was good news, (an easy to fit sewing project) since my summer has been tough and I have been unable to sew as much as I want because of fatigue. It's always nice to have a smooth process when getting back to a higher sewing volume. A party coming up required a black and white dress and I just couldn't bear black and white alone, so I bought this mooostly black and white fancy stretch twill. It has some other pretty color mixed in, which I think more flattering. Flickr photo album of this dress. It has a large print, which made the bands etc, prettier in a solid black plisse'. For the plisse, I used the matte and non-stripey side as the right side. Plisse' Bands Be aware, the many pieces mean there will be divided portions of a large print. I didn't care, but there is one flower center stage, that I have decided to applique for balance. I was extremely careful in the layout to put the bust point of the tissue paper between flowers and avoid a bullseye effect on the bodice. I was not so careful in any other way because I only had a small amount of fabric, and couldn't lay it out to match every flower. Can you spot the applique? This dress was easy as pie, except for one thing. I decided to use the pattern pieces for the neck and neck facing. This has a really cute look. You could more easily use bias binding, and mitre the corners at the V in the back. On the other hand, I posted a series of photos of the process step by step. It isn't hard or anything, but sometimes real photos make more sense. The ensemble turned out great and the photos might help someone with the assembly, but I did have some trouble sewing the ensemble into the dress at the V point in the back. Again that pesky V! The dress is still really successful in my book, but I hope next time I get that perfectly centered. Hopefully noone will notice... My sad V Another back view Bateau neckline and facing photo tutorial Trim trim trim - as they instruct you to - really! EXCEPT: the extra fabric at the back neck where it V's. There wasn't quite enough to turn under and hand tack over the V when hand stitching the facing down inside the dress. I cut precisely and followed the instruction carefully - so, I don't know... The only visible flaw inside my dress was that - but I am willing to live with it. You need to remove all the other bulk and all the little corners when doing the neckline and facing. I did not use sew-in interfacing. I used Pro Tailor from Sew Exciting and fused it There is a lot of hand stitching of the inside of the facing and then after installing the zipper in the left side seam, a lot of hand stitching to secure the entire lining in the bodice, along the zipper tapes, then front and back. One tricky thing was that the lining also had the cute gathers at the base of the bodice. The way I approached this, was to first hand-sew the lining edges to the zipper tape on both sides. Next I did the back. Then separately, I did the center front between the bust gathers, centering the lining carefully. Lastly, I pulled the gathering threads and hand stitched the gathers to finish the dress. One more to go! Doing it this way removes any risk that you will distribute the excess fabric incorrectly and end up with a distorted bodice lining that pulls to one side - OR- that you hand sew it all the way around and when you get there, not have enough fabric to stitch it to the zipper tape. Is there anything worse than picking out your own careful hand stitching?!!! Lining hand stitching done! Also, that approach allows you to carefully align the hem depth on each side of the zipper so the lining ends at the exact same place on both sides. Not that anyone would see it - but isn't it prettier that way? Sewing up the lining by the zipper. Finished dress, side zip and pretty bust gathers. Side View Finally, I hemmed with a double row of triple stretch. I examined the front of the dress when all was finished and decided to apply an applique to the front of the dress. I applied interfacing to the back of a flower (on some of the fabric I had left over from the project) and the cut it in half. I positioned the half flower to balance out the flower that was out of balance on the front of the dress. I pressed under the edges and played with how it would look best, taking several photos and decided which flower position looked right. I used the water soluble sticky tape to hold it down and then did uneven zigzag around the edges to attach it to the dress, using an applique foot. I knew that both lack of using this technique and the general nature of how these things go for me that it would end up uneven. I practised on a few scraps and decided it was the look I wanted - so I slipped and slid my way around the half flower. Before the applique... Applique on. My final assessment is this: Great dress. I like it better now. The unfussy stitching around the applique has an artsy feel - not a patch feel - or kiddie clothing feel. Yay!!! I am done and hopefully can get pics at the event it was created for. My dd doesn't like full slips, so she will wear it as is without a petticoat. She also doesn't want the little bows. It looks cute without because of the large print anyway I will try to get photos soon. Alas, my difficult to pin down darling likes to be sewn for but doesn't like to be hassled for photographic purposes... ahhhh life for the child of a sewist...

Pendulum Waves... And I can connect everything to sewing if I try hard enough...

2011-07-29T19:16:00.000-07:00

Check out the math here! WOW!

Everything is connected to math. You can see it in every aspect of sewing if you have an eye for it. Anyway, I just wanted to share!
Not a Mathematician, just geeking out about it:-)
http://sciencedemonstrations.fas.harvard.edu/icb/icb.do?keyword=k16940&pageid=icb.page80863&pageContentId=icb.pagecontent341734&state=maximize&view=view.do&viewParam_name=indepth.html

A REDHEAD post.

2011-07-28T23:54:00.000-07:00

Updated to include newly acquired information on my redhead type.

This is a story I have dealt with my whoooole life. "You are a redhead." "You are blond." "You are brown with highlights." You are Titian red." "You are an Auburn" "You look odd in orangey lipstick!" "You are a Peaches N Cream."

I have heard every strawberry blonde and red joke.

My favorite: What is a redhead walking between a blonde and a brunette?
Answer: An interpreter!

I was diagnosed my Prescriptives back in the day as a "Blue/Red" skin tone. That was when I first discovered that for a foundation to disappear into my skin and even out my skin tone, it needed to accomodate my blue rose undertones.
In fact, the foundation I was recommended, as I recall was "True Rose" but I may be mistaken it has been a while. Anything yellow wouldn't blend into my jaw line. There is small section of foundation that matches me and a set of exactly three lipsticks (from Prescriptives) that match my skin type. Amazing. So, those colors are: a dusty rose, a deep cream rose and Wisteria, a soft muted lilac.
OK... So this has been part of my color confususion.

The reds oranges and corals area all in color categories for skin that do not work for me, but because I am a redhead, I have often been told - practically by default - that I should wear orangey colors that I instictively knew would clash with my skin.

Sorry, all you cosmetic counter ladies who forced me to buy the number 2 (slightly more yellow) fair shade. I hated it and spent too much time blending it and using powder to cover the mask. A real pain for someone as generally lazy about cosmetic application as I am.

Rose and browned pinks seemed to disappear (not clash) on my lips, but clashed somewhat with my hair. I went with neutrals and chocolate tones, avoided anything to either side for the most part. I have to be careful with browns, because if they don't have enough rose tone to them they sit on my face like muuuud.

Not sure what to do, I turned my attention to the pressing matters of life and ignored it. Now as an over 40, I realize I am starting to show signs of age. I have wrinkles and spots everywhere from sun damage. Gray in my hair and due to migraines and allergies, frequently look tired.

Well, I went on a mission to figure out what I am supposed to wear and rediscovered what, I think, are my better colors. Ultimately, though I fit the category by obvious appearance and coloring, especially as a child and teen as a Warm Spring. I think, with careful comparison of the Prescriptive (all three os them) lipstick colors recommended for my Blue/Red complexion, with the color charts of all the seasons, that I may be a Soft Autumn.

Not every palette I found listed under this category looks right to me though. It may be that in some analyses I am actually Warm Autumn or Warm Spring despite my blue/red cool skin tone.

It is the ONLY category listed in all the season charts that includes the components that work with my Rose skin tones which are cool to neutral and my warm red hair at the same time.
My wrist when examined does not show green in the veins, It shows medium to dark blue and light purple with no obvious sign of yellow.

Here is a sample of Soft Autumn colors.

Now I see colors I feel may possibly complement my red hair AND suit my skin and eyes. I think Rose tones are going to work well with almost every color on this palette. Notice the majority of the colors are not super orangey colors, although a few have light orange or coral.

Only experimentation will tell.

I wanted to share, because I think many of us natural reds don't know where we are exactly as redheads. Maybe we get confused by our skin color or the makeup we gravitate to.

Check out this revealing photo compilation. These are experimentation shots. I didn't prepare for these photos other than to slap on some coral lipstick. Just quick rudimentary "effect" photos.

I look slightly more lively in warm spring colors but something still missing..

Though I have blue rose undertones, my all over, light golden freckling tends to warm up my skin.

My next photo set will be with the Soft Autumn colors and I think my true love for aubergine will be justified in the end.

A cool link to Estee Lauder's Virtual Makeup Tool
The colors in real life were a little different, but I found it useful and had a list ready to try when I went into the store.
http://www.esteelauder.com/LetsPlayMakeover/index.tmpl?CATEGORY_ID=CAT2541
An article on the Soft Autumn here:
http://12blueprints.com/a-soft-autumn-case-study/
One site I learned a lot about color from.

Learned a lot here too!

Vogue 8723

2011-06-20T22:31:00.001-07:00

Flower tutorial link added below.

Pattern Description:

MISSES' DRESS: A, B: Lined, fitted bodice and side seam pockets. A, B, C, D cup sizes:

FABRICS: A: Double Border Print Fabrics. B: Cotton Shirting, Linen, Gingham.

Pattern Sizing:
Combinations: (8-10-12-14-16), (16-18-20-22)
I made a 10 with the A cup.

EASY?
Yes. No surprises here.

Fabric?

This dress is made in fabulous Pink Swiss Dot and cost about $15 to make!.
It is fully lined with hand stitched finishing.

Notes on pattern:
Lengthened two inches as we are tall people over here. The dress as is hits mid knee length.
It might run just a tad large, just a tiny bit. If I make it again I might try one size down in a muslin and see what happens. It depends on your preferences. I like dresses just a little roomy, some people like them very snug. If you are a snug person, I would recommend making a muslin and maybe go down one size. Bear in mind that snug dresses pull on the zipper and can make it look bad, especially where the gathered waist meets the bodice. Just a thought.

One thing I wanted to mention is that the shoulder straps are cut at an angle. When you are ready to put the dress on and adjust the straps to sew them permanently into the front, mark or pin and then make sure when you sew it in, that the slanted edge is parallel to the seam allowance. This makes the strap slightly longer on one edge than the other, which fits the human body better than just sewing both edges the same length. Use lots of pins to hold it when sewing it in...

Conclusion:
This dress is sweet.

Created my own embellishments like this:

Flower embellishment:
Free form cut two flowers, one large and one small, from interfaced fabric. I made mine with rough petal shapes of 5. Even numbers generally look strange, so 3, or 5 would be OK. I did 5, ala Fibonacci.
You can, but don't have to, since it is interfaced, sew around all the edges of the flower shapes. Take the small flower and fold in half and then half again. Stitch over the pointy end to secure it. Now you can do it two ways. The faster would be to now position the smaller flower center, you just made, on the larger flower shape at high center. Look at it artistically to what you want it to look like. Now fold up a bit of the lower part of the large flower to cover the pointy stitched end of the center and stitch a small row of stitches, just long enough to hold and cover the center. On some you might secure it with a satin stitch. I used a small oval in the center of some.
-OR- you can sew the pointy end to the larger flower first and then fold the larger flower pleat and sew that up separately over the small center flower, but that adds another step. Now choose just a few flowers to put something special on, like a vintage button or bead. Think about the feeling you want to create. I wanted sort of a pinkish translucent raindrop for mine.
Picture Tutorial
Flower Embellishment Tutorial

Remember, you want it to look somewhat natural. So dimension is key. I wouldn't sew it all down flat, unless that is the look you are going for.
Sew each flower to the bodice, with a small square of the same interfaced fabric you made the flower, from behind it for stability. Now, when you sew the lining by hand down inside the bodice, the stitching for the flowers will be inside between the garment and the lining and will not show inside the garment or touch the skin. There! So that's how I did it. If I get time later I might take a few pics for that - but it is really easy and up to your own personal interpretation. Just trust yourself...

Photo Set

Pattern Review

DSCN2106, originally uploaded by Terri's Sewing Room.

The red dress.

2011-06-20T22:30:00.001-07:00

Pattern Description:
MISSES' DRESS: A, B: Close-fitting (?) and lined. No provision made for above waist adjustment.
FABRICS: Lightweight Linen, Sateen, Lightweight Crepe.
Pattern Sizing:
Combinations: (10-12-14-16-18), (18-20-22-24)
I made a ten, the smallest size available for this pattern. It runs large, and has some matching and easing in at least 8 places, but turned out a nice make.

My Fabric: Cherry red cotton sateen with Lycra.

Rather than make the shorter version (which I preferred) and altering to add the typical two inches, I made the long version so as to easily shorten it to the exact length required.

The zipper is to be installed before the sides are stitched to the fronts in one of the views.

My tip,
Pin the points that should match (notches, and hem) and go from there. If something looks wrong DON'T cut off the excess. Unpin and start over. The result is well worth the care.

My thoughts: To qualify as VERY easy, a pattern should be free of anything mind numbingly tedious, fiddly, frustrating and/or time consuming.
A lined dress with 8 total convex/concave matches, 4 being in possibly slippery lining fabric, (not counting sleeve caps) is a challenging and interesting endeavor, certainly doable... but not qualifying as Very Easy in my book.
When making a simple princess seam dress one expects a small amount of this over the bust area - standard procedure.
Sometimes beginners are unaware of how to handle this, generally just sewing it down from one end to the other, and then feeling there is something wrong with the pattern because things didn't line up, or cut off the excess at the bottom, unaware of the effect this will have on the drape of the garment. It is an easy dress in every other way, especially if you don't do any modifications.

To match the pieces in this pattern it is necessary to continue to ease and pin for some distance BEYOND the main curved areas, making it a much bigger project than a standard princess seam dress. There is a lot of extra fullness that must be incorporated from the HEM up.
The two sets of instructions for A or B view are so different that you must commit to sleeves or no sleeves from the very beginning. The timing of zipper application and what order you do these steps is different enough that you really can't jump ship to the other view easily once you are almost finished. If you are putting in sleeves, and made no adjustment to the sides, it is easier.

If you took up the shoulder at all - it is CRITICAL that you lower the crossing bands correspondingly! To just set them in place as though no changes were made, would greatly affect the look.

Also, if you take in the sides of the dress a lot, you need to then adjust the sleeve dramatically or not use one.

Even at hem, photo showing area of fabric needed to be eased in between notches on side pie
.Photo showing the amount of ease between notches.

I tried to feed the fabric under the needle properly, with no pushing or pulling keeping the seam in it's natural curved state.

Flickr Set of project

Pattern Review

DSCN2085-1, originally uploaded by Terri's Sewing Room.

Photos today:-)

Vogue Patterns: 8726 (Misses Dress)

2011-06-19T22:31:00.000-07:00

RED RED RED

My pattern review for this dress on PR

Hummingbirds - Color Inspiration.

2011-06-03T23:53:00.000-07:00

After doing some pattern shopping today, I came home and began to cook dinner.
Then I remembered! I have been meaning to snap some photos of the hummingbirds that visit my feeders.
I love to take color-combo hints from nature. The beautiful greens and scarlet, the rose-red, muted greens and gray, all with hints of white. Beautiful!

Anna's and Rufous shown here.

Altering Nicole Miller

2011-05-21T22:28:00.000-07:00

Here I have changed the top to a solid color for a friend's daughter. Now it can match her shoes:-)

My hens lay these eggs in various pastels.

2011-05-05T23:28:00.001-07:00

My hens lay these eggs in various pastels., originally uploaded by Terri's Sewing Room.

Beautiful color inspiration from nature! What a palette. Rose, olive, green, blue, pink, brown...

Flower Tutorial (for embellishments)

2011-04-28T15:19:00.001-07:00

Flower Tutorial (for embellishments), a set on Flickr.

How to make little embellishment flowers.

Vogue 8723

2011-04-27T21:48:00.000-07:00

Very Easy Vogue Patterns A B C D cup sizes.

I made my own flower embellishments and used vintage/reclaimed buttons. This dress is made in fabulous Pink Swiss Dot and the dress cost about $15 to make.
It is fully lined with hand stitched finishing.

Mini-Wardrobe Burda/Ottobre

2011-03-30T22:56:00.001-07:00

DSC07173, originally uploaded by Terri's Sewing Room.

Mini-wardrobe.

Ottobre Cardigan Jacket

2011-03-18T00:16:00.001-07:00

Ottobre Cardigan Jacket, originally uploaded by Terri's Sewing Room.

Finished my topper (Ottobre Cardigan)
for the Mini- Wardrobe on PR... I am wearing it with a wonderful bag my friends made for me. It is made from a fabulous upcycled men's suit!!!!! I am in LOVE!

Store here:
http://www.etsy.com/shop/1oldmanspants

Following the Plaid Into the Pockets

2011-03-12T01:49:00.000-08:00

A continuation of the Burda suit in plaid that I covered a few
posts ago
Link to that post here.
I haven't worked on it much since I started the mini wardrobe. This is in part due to trouble I was having with fraying and the front seam allowances. After the wardrobe I will get back to it. I will be making these pieces in a silk tweed for the contest so I consider this a trial run.
I may make a different skirt style for the contest. Not sure yet.

The challenge here is the plaid matching along with lots of curved seams.
An additional challenge is to do a decent job of matching without skewing the bias
and drape of the garment. Some of my plaid will not match exactly, at the Raglan sleeve crossing the shoulder for example. It is more important that the sleeve hang beautifully than the plaid to match. It is the price a pay for combining those two elements:-)

This pic shows the final result from the earlier photos of cutting out the pockets
so as to match the jacket exactly as the pattern continues into the pockets.

Plaid above view as it enters pocket matched

Pocket lays flat

Plaid below view

See? All lined up!

I made the skirt!

2011-02-28T15:05:00.000-08:00

I made the (possibly ugly) Burda Orient Express Skirt!

My pattern review shares more details and links. This is one of the strangest skirts I have ever made. It has these cones draping on the front, as Burda calls them.
I explained more and included links in my recent post on this subject. I love the lines of this floral skirt.

Mini Wardrobe 2011

2011-02-26T13:48:00.000-08:00

The preliminary plan for a mini wardrobe.

Various aspects of this may alter in fabric and which patterns I settle on:-)
This should be fun and give me lots of late winter/spring choices for what to wear.

Why not have someone else sew for YOU for a change?

2011-02-20T15:00:00.000-08:00

I just had to share this.

Like many of you, I am the Sewist in my circle. Other people ask me to mend for them, alter for them, design for them. Most of the time I am not the recipient of the art that I know goes into objects I create.

I create for family, for friends - for money at times. If any of you have read my blog for any length of time, you are probably aware that I make an occasional wedding gown or accessories for someone.

WELL...

I decided to have a hat and bag made for myself. I had heard an old acquaintance of mine was making hats, so I googled her and was surprised that she had recently started an Etsy shop.

Yes, I googled her - ( I am not getting payed here for this, just a happy customer).

Anyway I LOVE my hat. It was such a pure LUXURY to have someone sew something for me with care and concern for color and detail. I think she did a good job - and for such a LOW price. Understanding, I sew too, so that means that I am aware of some of the construction details, and a bit of a perfectionist when I sew.

However, I didn't want that in this hat. I just wanted a creation. I didn't care of things matched up exactly. I just wanted the charm and boy did she deliver! This hat is so much fun. The flower button snaps off and you can replace the color of the felt flower that is sandwiched in between. This makes it versatile for so many different garments.

You can wear it several different ways. You can wear it Jane Austenish, so the gathered little tucks go around the side of your head, or you can wear it tiny brim forward. I think she calls it a cloche.
I asked for colors that would suit a natural redhead, and just sorta waited to see what she would send me. How fun is that?

Me in my new hat:-)

Her shop is here: 1oldmanspants

I like that she uses old suits and vintage materials in her hat. This one was from an old men's suit and the rest will be made into the bag. The fabric for the center of the flower will be incorporated into the bag.

More Theoretical Plaid Matching for the Front Facings

2011-02-19T23:36:00.000-08:00

The front of this jacket has some curves, in part because it has the Burda, 3 piece, dolmanesque/set in - but "not", sleeve.
There is no easing and you don't set the sleeve into an armscye. The stitching to sew the sleeve up, goes from the wrist to the neckline, somewhat like the Burda petite coat I made and explained about in my review, with the exception that unlike the coat, this sleeve has the Dolman lines running distinctly along the front, which is where my concerns for the plaid comes in.

Sooo with the crazy Dolman aspect lending insanity to the plaid, I see this can go two ways. I will love it or hate it:-)
Whatever the case, the thing must get constructed!

Lay the facing piece on the front and line it up.
Make a mark at the high intersecting point so that you can line it up with the plaid pattern later.

Now use a ruler to match the high point with the mark you made. Make sure everything is on the same color line of the plaid. I always use the stick the pin through the fabric method to see if the pin comes out on the appropriate place on the other side. The pin method works great for lining anything up, not just plaid.

It is difficult to avoid some of the wrinkling where it is pinned and so forth as you work with this. Make sure you pin generously and hold the whole thing down firmly as you cut. It might be a good idea to use pattern weights and or a rotary cutter. I felt more secure with pins, but as you put the pins in you risk shifting things.
I used scissors.

Line Up!

2011-02-16T00:13:00.000-08:00

To get my plaid pocket lining to match up with the pocket opening,

clearly VERY IMPORTANT...

:-)

Start by laying the front garment piece (cut from fashion fabric but with paper still pinned to it) carefully on top of the folded, aligned and prepared fabric. (OR trace off a few lines first, cut the paper out and then lay the front piece out on the folded fabric, either way is fine as long as you are accurate.)

If you haven't already done so, using a ruler, peer through the paper and mark off a few lines of the plaid with a pencil, so you can see where everything should be lined up.

Although you are marking those lines through the paper, from the cut front piece itself, you still need to line the whole thing up with the plaid underneath.

This way, you can line up your newly cut pocket piece just below, and cut out the pockets in line with the front...

Try putting a tiny letter at the end of each line on the pocket pattern piece to indicate

color changes.

I put a tiny "R" at the end of the red lines so I could distinguish them.

As you can see in the photo below (or maybe not) the fabric is not cut, but only the paper (jacket front) pattern piece.

This piece has already been cut in fabric, so the paper puckering where the pins are, is a result of moving it around and will not bother anything. It's just really annoying to look at:-)

Now lay the paper pocket piece you cut out, just below the front piece on the new folded fabric, doing so exactly as marked and pin carefully.

Check the bottom layer has not shifted.

Now cut a 5/8 seam allowance around it as you carefully cut out the pocket/pocket lining.

Clip a tiny mark at each corresponding edge, through all layers, for the pocket opening on the pocket and on the main front piece where the paper has been cut out.

Now, when the seam allowance is sewn, you should have perfectly aligned edges where the outside and inside pocket edges meet.

I say should have,

because this is terrible tricky and it is nearly impossible to keep something from shifting, somehow - somewhere.

When the jacket is constructed we shall see if the pockets line up as expected.

You can see the fabric is shifted along the way here, and a missing piece of fabric in the middle.
That's because I cut out the front facing as well, while everything was lined up. I will do another post with those pictures.

Link to final result here...

Matching Plaids and My Current Project

2011-02-13T19:30:00.000-08:00

Having never gone to these lengths to match plaid, I thought I would share the process...

This is my first project in a series. I decided to use the plaid for this one because with less fringe the plaid boucle' won't overwhelm it. The next project is similar, different jacket, more fringe, no plaid...

The skirt has very curved panels. The result is this appearance around the skirt.

This fabric is designer and MUCH nicer than I imagined it would be. A dream to work with although not wool, which I am accustomed to and prefer. I really like it. It has tiny threads of silvery glittering Lurex through it and is machine washable. $2.44 per yard on sale...

Match meticulously and pin everything!

Cut along a single thread to even up the fabric. You can't tear along the thread.

Hanging unfinished skirt before hemming to allow the bias to settle.

My Singer Swing Needle 306K and Strangely Drawn To...

2011-02-09T07:49:00.000-08:00

Later I will try to get some pics up of the interesting vintage attachments
for this cool Singer.
This is a good example for learning about needle types. Many people assume if you can fit the needle in there and it seems to sew... you're good!
Actually, the needles required for this machine are unique (206x13)
found here on AllBrands and have to be special ordered. They are a tad shorter than the needles people commonly use (ie 15x1). If you use the wrong ones it will chip away at the bobbin case and damage your machine. The clicking sound of the cams turning may mask the sound of the damage occuring, so if you weren't paying attention you might miss it.

OK - I know this is odd. The front of this skirt is just strange. The project shown in another fabric looks even worse. Somehow, I like it. I think it's the way it comes up from the hem and forms the body of the pleats as it rises. It looks like a flower. Weirdly, the more I look at it the more I like it... Everyone I have shown it to had the "yuck" reaction. I still can't help it. Must make this skirt...

So, check this out. On the model in the magazine I thought the front draping "cones" added bulk,
Which you can see for yourself here.
Really that bulk is from, in part, the heavy weight wool they used. A lighter fabric would look more like the shot above. Anyway, I still think it has a lot of interest and I may make it in a lighter fabric and depending how it looks, control where the cones fall at the top.

This photo links to the magazine here:

Burda Style - you have to scroll through the preview to get to the skirt model.

My Late Winter Sewing Plan

2011-02-06T19:52:00.001-08:00

prjlatewinter, originally uploaded by Terri's Sewing Room.

Looking forward to making these Burda (WOF and Style) patterns! Fabric swatches of silk and wool are scattered about for perusal. What would be inspiring in which design? Hmmm... my favorite part of sewing.

I had to embed the adorable video clip of these two singing...

2011-01-06T16:28:00.000-08:00

How could this be sewing related???

HOME!

I think the relationship these two have, is inspirational. We should all be so fortunate.
It is noteworthy that he is playing a right stringed guitar left handed (upside down I think) which is amazing. Whistling too. Wow!

Burda Finished Audrey Coat

2011-01-01T17:08:00.001-08:00

Burda Finished Audrey Coat, originally uploaded by Terri's Sewing Room.

This is the Burda Coat I just made for dd. This is my first Burda project and it was really fun and interesting. More later, but here is a pic and a link to the Flickr album...
Project Album on Flickr

Burda Petite Coat

2010-12-16T00:09:00.001-08:00

CIMG0050, originally uploaded by Terri's Sewing Room.

I am making this coat converted to tall sizing. It is coming along in VW Brick Melton instead of the purple wool velour shown here.

Working on Burda Audrey Coat.

2010-12-15T19:58:00.000-08:00

Sorry about the multiple posting - working on connectivity issues...:-)
This WIP coat is explained in detail here:
My WIP Review

HP Camden Coat

2010-11-30T18:44:00.000-08:00

Removable collar

I finally finished it! There are still
a few details I will add later, but this is it for now.
Check my pattern review for more details.

Butterick 5285

2010-10-27T17:55:00.000-07:00

Mohair Wrap

2010-09-17T13:29:00.000-07:00

So, been knitting between cutting out patterns for sewing.
I think I am done now, but just had to get a soft fuzzy one done!

Unique Dress, Coat Sew-Along and Head-wraps.

2010-09-13T15:28:00.000-07:00

Very nice new pattern! http://www.colettepatterns.com/shop/crepe
It is a lovely wrap dress with the wrap feature in the back. Also of note: this Colette Patterns Lady Grey sew-along. Click on the badge for details.

I have also recently knitted myself an Anthropologie inspired headwrap. I didn’t use a pattern and it is easy to do. Mine is in dark colors and has a single crafted-on rosette.

CO 12 using the long tail method. Work until band seems to fit your head. This requires occasionally wrapping it around your head or that of a nearby unwitting family member to test it. When mine was the right length, I decreased and bound off so there is a little dip where the oval end joins. I did this intentionally, but really just bind off your work. Using a crochet hook, sew the ends together and work in any thread tails. Then with a medium size crochet hook starting in the center, work the center of the rosette, starting with half crochet, working in circles and doubling back gradually increase to crochet, double and treble, and then taper off again to half crochet. Use your imagination, but whatever you do, don't just work it around in a boring predictable circle! That's it! Now wear it and realize you just saved about thirty dollars making this yourself:-) Oh, and use really high quality wool, it feels nicer on your forehead. Don't wear it too low on the face it ages you.

A work in progress. By no means perfect workmanship, as I am unaccustomed to this long hair wool. It is so soft and lovely though, a dream to work with. This one may have three small rosettes. South African Mohair in Cameo Pink:

Tapered effect on rosette.

Butterick 5399 and What I DO when I am not sewing... :-)

2010-08-30T13:40:00.000-07:00

I made this Butterick jacket view A for my grandmother.
It was so fun to surprise her! I posted the review on PR.
Isn't she gorgeous?

The video, if it loads correctly, is what I was doing a few minutes ago
and I wanted to share...

Coming Soon... Fall!

2010-08-05T20:48:00.000-07:00

I usually don't put out a lot of text, but I am happy to report that my ultra busy summer is starting to afford glimmers of sewing promise. There are some nice new patterns out by some of my favorite designers. There are interesting offerings at Fabric.com ( 1.95-clearance - changes regularly, so may not be as interesting by the time you look at this:-) and Pattern Review is just buzzing with projects in the Gallery.

The Fall 2010 Sew Stylish magazine is a winner! What a great issue with tips on jacket construction, embellishment for blouses, help for fly front zippers... I could go on and on because every page seemed so interesting to me.

I don't know if anyone else will recognize the VW Lambswool on pages 22-25. (Well, OK... maybe it isn't, but it sure does look like it!)

This site: http://sewtrue.com/ looks to have some excellent Needle-Point Tracing Wheels that would be fantastic for tracing off Burda type patterns.

As an additional note, while shopping in department stores today, I noticed that many of the styles being offered are exactly like the patterns available right now for sewing! Even from Vogue. I was amazed!

That's it for now... projects in the works:-)

Just saw this! New fall collection out by Butterick - This wardrobe has nice lines for "big four".
B5535

Colette Patterns 1001 Macaron dress

2010-06-22T16:14:00.000-07:00

Simplicity 2475

2010-05-31T19:13:00.000-07:00

A classy skirt!

Frequently-sewn-for drummer (one of my kids) - wins in contest division of beginner (less than 1 yr)!

2010-05-17T18:53:00.000-07:00

This is a sewing blog... but one of my children whom I frequently sew for won - and received a prize today for her amateur drumming in this video. She picked it up on her own about 9 mos ago. I think it's fun so I decided to share.

I embedded this, but if it does not play smoothly, the actual YouTube video may play better. Right click on the video and select option to view on YouTube.

Simplicity Pattern 2444

2010-04-01T16:48:00.000-07:00

Butterick: 6582

2010-03-18T16:23:00.001-07:00

I have this one basically done in view C, which is the full skirt version. I am working on the belt and buckle:-)
Pictures coming soon.
Link to WIP on Pattern Review

Simplicity: 2508 (Project Runway Misses Coat)

2010-03-18T16:16:00.001-07:00

This Lambswool is just so sooofffttt!

Interlined for warmth and lined with the VW blue flowers chiffon – it is a big hit with my DD.

View Full Album

McCall's: 5972 Dress and Vogue 7937 Skirt

2010-01-28T21:33:00.000-08:00

Vogue Pattern 8626

2010-01-17T23:17:00.000-08:00

Here is my new favorite coat pattern!

This coat was easy to sew, the wool super comfy and I added cute button detail for added charm.

What's not to love?!!!

Vogue skirt 7937

2010-01-02T19:41:00.000-08:00

This is a really cute simple skirt to make. I love the back walking vents and the general lines of design.

Ivory Flower Girl Dress

2009-12-17T19:21:00.000-08:00

Eclissi - my new dress form:-)

2009-11-22T12:39:00.000-08:00

Ok, maybe not a dress form, but definitely inspirational for a cute but dignified dog sweater, or a puppy bed from special fabric. She is seven weeks old.
Eclissi is Italian for Eclipse (as in she is very black, no white markings anywhere).

Pacific Sandy Beach Walk Soap

2009-11-19T21:06:00.000-08:00

My latest fabric creations...

2009-11-06T21:36:00.000-08:00

Here are my latest offerings for special occasions.
Felt Flowers that are unique and individually hand cut from Eco-Felt. I love the texture of felt, and of course, it is great to be environmentally friendly! I am featuring them in my shop on ETSY, as a custom item people can order in various colors for their events.

It's also a cool fact that Eco-Felt is made from recycled plastic bottles and is CPSIA compliant!

I have been also working on a skirt in black wool crepe (to die for) for my grandmother in a vintage pattern. I love that fabric so much I can't wait to get some more and make me a skirt just like it!

Two Veils a story with tiers...

2009-10-11T18:44:00.000-07:00

My first listing on Etsy!

2009-10-09T19:45:00.000-07:00

My shop now has its first listing. Hurrah!
I added this custom reserve listing for a beautiful vintage dress, reproduced from a photograph. I have been patiently waiting for some time to get things together for the shop. I am so excited it is starting to roll. Newly rolling but rolling:-)

If you would like a veil or something custom made, that you have seen of my work on this blog.
Please email me at simpleessential@earthlink.net or click the button to my shop here, or at right, and contact me there.

2009 Lined Jacket Album

2009-09-29T14:20:00.001-07:00

This jacket is functional and fashionable! McCall Trench Coat. Check out my review at Pattern Review. Link on sidebar:-) As a side point, she is wearing the trench over a Hotpatterns 24/7 Plain and Simple pencil skirt in wool.

View Full Album

The leaves are turning…

2009-09-29T00:07:00.001-07:00

McCall Trench for DD

Wardrobe Storyboard Fall 2009

2009-09-26T21:30:00.000-07:00

WIP McCall Trench Coat

2009-09-26T21:28:00.000-07:00

Ok - so here is my WIP... it's getting there!

My Jacket Pocket Linings Heart Me:-)

2009-09-17T17:43:00.001-07:00

These photos are of my latest project for Lined Jacket 2009 on PR.

My DD picked out the most expensive buttons in the universe for her coat… I mean, isn’t it funny how kids do that? I want her to love her coat and since the pocket linings heart me so much, and the buttons coordinate so well with the lining --- well I guess she gets the pretty buttons! I am such a pushover!

Another HP Plain and Simple Pencil Skirt 1011

2009-08-24T22:20:00.001-07:00

Marrakesh Drawstring Pants

2009-08-23T00:20:00.001-07:00

This is the only photo I have at the moment – a bit wrinkly, but gets the job done. This is my superior loungewear model:-)

Taking in the sides:-)

2009-08-21T12:21:00.000-07:00

Hot Pattern’s Riviera Kiss Me Coat (Finally)

2009-08-13T21:51:00.001-07:00

Yes, yes I know. I have taken FORever to finish this coat. In fact, I am actually *almost* finished as I type this. Giving consideration to my back forced me to stop for the day. Here are a few update photos…

Here, I pin the top in order to start marking the button placement through the concealed buttonhole placket.

Next, use a pin to penetrate the center of the buttonhole, from the right side of the fabric, and make a mark with a white pencil where the pin touches the placket underneath.

Another example. I prefer to precisely mark where my buttons should go, through the existing buttonholes, rather than using a template or guide.

Just to make sure I didn’t mess up, I always use a ruler to see what I have actually done. Here (after straightening the ruler) I see that the marks I have made are about an inch from the edge of the fabric and about 4.5 inches apart.

I sew on my beautiful buttons!

A look inside the coat.

I was so determined to use that pink lining (left over from a wedding project) that I have installed it in everything, rather than have it go to waste. I am glad I was frugal, but the next time I make this coat the lining will be a darker color. In other words, I should have ignored that frugal inner voice this time. I like it, but I don’t.

McCalls Dress-Shirt

2009-07-23T13:13:00.000-07:00

Vintage Vogue Party Dress 1094

2009-07-17T21:40:00.000-07:00

Vintage Vogue 1094 (1955)

2009-07-16T23:09:00.000-07:00

McCall 2447

2009-07-16T23:03:00.000-07:00

Men's dress shirt M2447

Butterick 5351

2009-07-06T23:38:00.001-07:00

McCall 5232

2009-06-28T15:36:00.001-07:00

Linen blend summer dress in a eye-popping melon:-)

Vintage Necchi Sewing Machine Manual 538-539

2009-06-24T14:24:00.001-07:00

Let’s Explore a Vintage Dress!

2009-06-10T21:21:00.000-07:00

I know this is a really large post, and lots of pictures but I just HAD to share the SO juicy juicy details of this mid-1800's dress, that belonged to my children's great great great grandmother.

We inherited it this past week, and today had the chance to look it over.

It was not being stored or preserved in any special way and considering the damage etc... I decided to go ahead and touch it, photograph it and just enjoy it. Maybe later, I will wear gloves:-)

Actually, considering how old it is, I think, upon close examination it is in pretty good shape.

I noticed a few spots here and there and it looks like the last wearer or child (possibly adult :-) playing dress-up, stepped on the back hem tearing a hole in both the outer dress and the inner under dress.

Take a little trip with me now, and let's check out the details of this garment. I find it sooooo fascinating to examine the process used so very long ago, in another time, culture and place... This, of course, from the point of view of a fiber fanatic and a sewist who values what it takes to make such a garment.

The photos below are taken in the yard. I asked the advice of an antique specialist, referred by a local antique shop. I was told that it would be OK to put it in the fresh air, not in direct sunlight, to air out a bit. The photography is done in dappled light from the shade of an apple tree. I was told, that in general, I would need to contact a museum to have the dress cared for, but if it was just a family treasure that had lots of damage, that I could just wrap it in acid free paper and keep it out of the light.

I am undecided, because there is some damage, but I don't think it is a lost cause.

There are options to have it boxed and the O2 pumped out and replaced, but at this point I want to study the garment a bit more before it gets locked away.

The camera seemed to catch the dappled lighting and although all taken at once, the lighting seems to be different in every photograph!

Here we have the silk satin overdress. As you can see it is black and has gore points in the front. It has a left side closure. There are horizontal pintucks sewn neatly around the skirt. This portion of the garment was sewn with great care, using an early hand crank or treadle and finished, in all ways, by hand stitches. The hem is hand rolled and delicately stitched.

As a side, the dress may be “weighted silk” which was coated with lead. I haven’t had time to burn fibers and see if there is a metallic ash or not. Scary!

Horizontal pintucks close-up.

Here we have a close up of the underside of the over-dress at the hem. You can see the rolled hem and the underside of the pintuck, which appears as a flat seam line.

Here are the pintucks up close and from right side. You can see the relative consistency which indicates machine stitching. Much of the rest of the garment has uneven hand stitching.

Now we look at the waistline. Can you see the uneven stitching as the sewist tried to guide the fabric and crank or treadle at the same time?

It may have been indicative of an unsteady hand in general or poor eyesight, but I think it likely he/she was operating a machine and doing a very good job for what he/she was working with.

Vintage fasteners! So delicate!

Now the silk under-skirt…

Waist line of the underskirt.

Real horsehair at the hem… Can you see where the sewer accidentally caught some fabric in the seams and didn’t rip it out? Nice to know that even vintage sewists didn’t always perfect the stuff that wouldn’t show!

Here we see the wrong side of the silk underskirt. Along the top edge in the photo, you can make out where the sewist did hand stitching along any seams that might ravel.

Another look at the total mass of inside seams and all the hand finishing inside.

Now we look at the Waist or top portion of the dress…

Check out the amazing hand stitching!!!

Set in sleeve – look – JUST LOOK at the basting stitches and gathering stitches!

Fastenings on lining of top portion of dress.

See the pinking?

So much hand work!

We noticed the sewist used two different sleeve linings: one blue, one brown.

Isn’t this FUN?

Twirly Spring - Spring Fashion Contest - CraftStylish

2009-06-01T11:44:00.001-07:00

Twirly Spring - Spring Fashion Contest - CraftStylish

Posted using ShareThis

Working On Stuff!

2009-05-17T19:18:00.001-07:00

I haven’t posted for a bit, but have been sewing nonetheless. I can’t decide if I want to enter my project in a challenge or not, and if I decide YES, then my project must be previously unpublished.

I have never entered any contest or challenge for one of my projects but I was thinking it might be fun…

Ottobre Trench and Bird bag

2009-04-15T22:47:00.000-07:00

I tried to get a closer shot of the front. The buttons are hard to see in the photograph.

Obviously, it is really bright and colorful - carazy... but in real life it is just

TOO CUTE!

Here is the finished back view. I've added a couple of buttons to the back of the belt...

Ottobre free download "Bird Bag".

2009-04-10T15:21:00.000-07:00

I made this child's bag from corduroy to coordinate with the child size Ottobre trench I am making.
The wing flaps are actually pockets. There is a base to the bag that separates the legs - one to each piped side. CUTE! I also omitted the ruffles around the pockets and lined with corduroy. Toy monkey not included:-)

Link to the pattern:
http://www.ottobredesign.com/fi/kaavat/pdf/bird_bag_EN.pdf

Base of bag...

Whitework Techniques Tutorial

2009-03-29T15:11:00.000-07:00

I realized that I had not yet posted my tutorial for whitework quilting on the blog. There are some pictures and a link to the basics of the tutorial on Pattern Review, but I meant to actually post it here too:-)

I have made this type of quilt many times over the years and never the same way twice.

Whitework quilting has a very long history. In some countries these quilts are given for a special wedding present. In some places they call it Trapunto, but I believe true Trapunto is also stuffed to accentuate the puffy parts of the quilt.

I love to make up my own designs. I don't have a long arm or anything fancy. I just roll it up and sew it on my sewing machine. I do free motion for the feathered portions without any kind of table or stitch regulator to assist. I wish I had a stitch regulator but I don't. If you practice a lot you can get pretty even with it though. Or cheat and go over it a few times. I have never had anyone complain, as once the quilt is done, it is hard to see the flaws.

Whitework is just so distracting to look at - it is very forgiving and fun to do. No worries about perfection.If you have any doubts, just wash the quilt once and dry it in the dryer - and you will be so thrilled with the results!!!I have tried to read whatever I can on whiteworking and have seen a few, but not a lot of books devoted to it.

I am making this quilt using my own techniques, and not from any instructions in the book. However, I am using the templates only, of the feather hearts and cables from Diana Hill's quilting book. In reality you could draw anything you like or get templates or stencils from anywhere. I enjoy drawing my own ideas for it.

After all these years I use my own fabric, quilt dimensions, construction and drawing and binding methods.

I buy a simple cotton I can see through, if I *must* trace, with the knowledge the fabric may not hold up as well as I would wish. However, the methods I now use as illustrated below mean I can use any quality of fabric with no need to see through it for tracing:-)

I like pencil or blue water soluble pens. After much back breaking labor, drawing all my designs by hand, I discovered something wonderful! Draw or find designs you want to use and then scan them onto your computer or put them on the scanning bed of your printer to copy!!!

Insert: heavenly singing, flowers, song birds and butterflies here:-)

I put Floriani water soluble stabilizer - the kind with the sticky side covered by the paper backing into my ink-jet printer. This usually comes on a roll and has to be cut into paper sized sheets. I print my designs directly on the water soluble side of the stabilizer. In the past I have tried printing out, using the iron-on type of Floriani, that is partly water soluble, but leaves some fibers behind. It is harder to use and must be put in reverse direction on the underside of your fabric, so that the part that doesn't wash away is inside your quilt not on top of it. This also makes it harder to wash away the printer ink. It is cheaper by half than the other stabilizer ($35 instead of $65) but a pain!

Measure carefully for good placement, it really shows up in the final quilt, in the sense that the unquilted areas are accentuated. So you want the quilted areas in general to be well placed. The detailed stitching itself is very forgiving, as I already mentioned, but the impression of placement of designs, is less so.

Before you tear the paper backing off, mark the corners of the designs/stabilizer pieces, onto the white fabric top, with the blue soluble pen, so when you tear off the back, you know exactly where to lay the sticky sheet down.

When your fabric has been prepared, stick the designs to the top of the fabric. In the old days I used to draw it ALL in with pencil. It took hours!

After the top is ready, add the batting and safety pin the top, batting and back together everywhere, to keep it all stable as you work on it.

Next, I draw in anything that couldn't be applied by the aforementioned methods, like grid work, or anything I couldn't afford to print out on that paper. This time I had enough to do some, but not all, of the cables and the feathered hearts. I leave a spot for my label/signature, and also I like to assign areas to put something special, like the name of the recipient or a special free-motion bit of my own doodle art.

Now, I just sew on the lines. I am using Dual Duty XP and it is working great!When sewing any of the parts be careful to keep the backing fabric free and smooth as you sew over it. Nothing worse than turning it over and finding you have sewn over bunched up fabric!It is so easy to do and not even know it. Do the difficult areas with free-motion on your sewing machine. Put the feed dogs down and use a darning foot.

Set pressure at 1.

Add binding, wash it in the washing machine until all traces of ink and stabilizer are gone.

Dual Duty

2009-03-27T14:00:00.000-07:00

You may think I am referring to thread here, but actually I am talking about my penchant for working on two or three projects at the same time.

I don't know how many other people do the same, but I find that I do a better job if I can change scenery once in a while. I like the way it relaxes me away from the intensity I sometimes feel as I complete a difficult aspect or technique on a certain project.

Here are some photos of a little Ottobre trench I am making.
It is so colorful!
You can see how this would make a nice walk through the "garden" visually (even tho it's hearts not flowers) and provide the distraction needed to focus on a more tedious project:-)

Tiny Cuff strap with button... (this is a 98cm Ottobre child size trench) I used Topstitching needles and found the soft fine cord harder to manage without a walking foot than I thought:-) I just moved my needle position over to do the double stitching.

Back of coat - belt and back belt loops...

Tiny welt pocket with label affixed:-) Picked label up at Sew Expo in Puyallup.

Piped and Lined Patch Pocket Part 1

2009-02-23T19:24:00.000-08:00

I did not see any instructions for making a lined piped patch pocket in my reference books, that exactly matched the shape and style of the pattern pieces I had for this coat.

There were almost no instructions with this pattern for piping or lining the pockets and limited illustrations. Which is a nice challenge if you are not in a big hurry:-)

I should mention, I did it the way I am showing here, and it worked out great for me.
I have no doubt there are other better ways to do this, but here I show what worked for me.

Also, these are traced pattern pieces, and since I can't draw a straight line to save my life, you may notice less than perfect edges to my cut pattern pieces:-)

First, mark off the seam allowance with chalk or whatever you use for marking. Lay out double-sided wash-away adhesive tape along the chalk markings, inside the seam allowance.

Next, layout the piping around the edges and clip piping seam allowance where it bends around corners.

Remove the paper strip from the adhesive.

Pull out and cut away the cord that would be folded over double in the top portion of the pocket. In this case of the Hotpatterns' Riviera Kiss Me Coat, I found it good to trim three inches at each end for the large pockets and two inches for the small pockets. Cut only the cord inside the piping. Do not cut the piping itself.

Piped and Lined Patch Pocket Part 2

2009-02-23T19:18:00.000-08:00

Lay the piping out on the adhesive so that the piping falls on, or very nearly on the chalk line and press seam allowance of piping firmly down onto the adhesive.

Lay the lining piece across the top of the pocket and stitch, leaving a gap in the center for turning later.

Press as you go. Turn the lining down until it reaches the bottom of the pocket, which as you can see, forms a cuff or inside facing to the pocket after turned.

Stitch around edge of pocket

Piped and Lined Patch Pocket Part 3

2009-02-23T19:15:00.000-08:00

Trim and turn through opening you left in top of lining.

Press and slipstitch opening where shown in picture at top center of lining.

Now you are done!

Concealed Grosgrain Buttonhole Placket

2009-02-20T20:29:00.000-08:00

This is a strip of 2 inch grosgrain with buttonholes applied.

The ribbon is applied instead of a self fabric concealed placket on the facing of the front of a jacket. In this case the project is Hotpatterns'
Riviera Kiss Me Coat.

This coat has been on the back burner because of time/life constraint issues for me. I hate to call it a UFO - but there it is. Now, it is happily being given its due attention again.

I had never used this application before, so I emailed Trudy of Hotpatterns and she explained how to do it. I really doubt I did it just as she suggested, but I will show what I did here anyway. I had previously planned to make my own placket from denim, and asked advice from others, but I changed my mind and decided to try their way, to learn something new. I like the idea of learning all the different ways people do the same basic thing.
The instructions that came with the pattern were very very limited on this application. Like one or two sentences.

OK - so, if you can see it there, there are two rows of stitches between the buttonholes, at the ribbon edges. The stitches hold the placket down between the buttonholes, but leave open area to grab and button your jacket/coat where the buttonholes themselves are. The seam gauge shows the degree to which there is an opening.

The apparent thought behind Hotpatterns doing it this way, is to avoid bulk. They really DO suggest using the ribbon and want it FLAT in front.
So far so good and I am a bit further on this project.

I must say that when something becomes a UFO, I tend to change my mind on colors and thread and even fabric or lining choices. In this case I FORCED myself to accept most of what I already had going and just plowed on. I did change the grosgrain color to blue instead of the green I had before. I also decided to pipe some of the coat, whereas before, I had thought I wouldn't do any piping because I have zero experience with that. Although, I'm generally not attracted to the look of piping, I am noticing it's somewhat useful because it draws the eye to a more structured aspect and away from your stitching lines and gives a more finished look to it overall. It hides the lining, as in a patch pocket for example, from peeking out around any of the edges.
I still love the buttons...

Hotpatterns 24/7 Pencil Skirt

2009-02-13T21:22:00.000-08:00

Isn't Tulle LOVELY???!!!

2009-02-05T17:21:00.000-08:00

Tulle is a wonderful thing to work with. It is a net fabric which derives its name from a place in France where it originated. It can be made from various fibers like silk and is commonly made with nylon. Nylon has a lot of body and is inexpensive.

Silk tulle is very soft and fluid and has less body but has its own unique beauty. Any tulle can be pumped up by adding starch or something like it to stiffen the fabric. Some people use hairspray, but I would add a warning that this would make your garment or item more flammable. No one wants a wedding fiasco where someone walks too close to a candle or a hot light...

This can also be a concern if one is making ballet costumes. Often theaters have very very hot lights where the dancers are performing. I have personally seen a recital where a kid bumped against one accidentally and got burned.

Back to the fun part. If you want to experiment with adding edges to tulle, get several weights of thread and woolly nylon and take careful notes of your results on a given tulle. This way you won't have to struggle to repeat your successes later.

Top Stitching

2008-12-25T13:01:00.000-08:00

I have added top stitching to the vintage coat. I think it looks great up close and is barely perceptible far away. It serves the added purpose of anchoring the facing, since I chose not to interline it.

1953 Vintage Vogue Coat

2008-12-24T16:24:00.000-08:00

Here are photos for PR. I have finished my first coat ever, and I should say also, first "vintage" type garment for myself. I have rarely sewn for myself. A family member took some snapshots.

I think it's really BIG on me... Not so sure about how it looks on. :-(
It is very luxurious to put on with the thick, heavy satin lining but it also feels odd in this time when everything is always so fitted and shaped, to put on something so voluminous!

I plan to wear it even though it feels so large because it is also very comfortable. I could put it over any amount of layering, as they would all fit underneath without binding anywhere:-) haha

Although I just pressed the coat I can see several spots that looked like they have never been pressed in the shot below. I think I would do wool next time and maybe wrinkling wouldn't be as big an issue.

Outdoors view/perspective on wearability.

Hand-sewn in lining

Vintage Vogue

2008-12-08T15:25:00.000-08:00

Riviera Kiss Me Coat

2008-12-03T18:04:00.000-08:00

Hemming Part 3

2008-11-30T14:21:00.000-08:00

New vid soon...

Obviously, this is a severely "A" shaped item. However, it does help illustrate the point that there will be excess fabric left over because the bottom is wider than any graduated point on upward.

Ease stitches can be sewn near the edge of the fabric, in the seam allowance.

Use 4.5-5 length and 0-1 tension. Don't backstitch or "lock" the seam because you need to be able to pull those long thread tails to ease the fabric!

Pulling up ease stitches to remove excess bulk. I know this looks like a lot - you don't have to do much pulling to get the effect you want on a real project. Just a little is usually enough to get rid of the excess fabric. Also, a burst of steam will "shrink out" the eased areas so that when you sew the seam the result is smooth with no mini gathers or puckers in the seam. It looks impossible, but with practice it becomes second nature.

Excess fabric now pulled up without any pleats, and lays flat from outside. The slight puckering you see in the photo above, is from the satin fabric properties and would press out easily.

This shows an example that is easy to hem because the proportions do not vary vertically. No excess fabric.

Finishing edges before hemming.

2008-11-30T14:01:00.000-08:00

Good idea to finish your raw hem edges by sewing a zigzag stitch, or by using pinking shears or by serging. This makes a nice clean edge that won't fray. Fabrics like knits or fleece don't fray and don't need to be finished.

Vintage Vogue Coat V1083

2008-11-30T00:07:00.000-08:00

Here you see the change up to the yoke portion of the back of the coat. I am making it in corduroy. Lining it with satin.

ASL Tips On Choosing Thread

2008-11-29T21:15:00.000-08:00

This ASL video is just a fun, educational thing for those of us who use ASL. It has just a few tips for choosing thread. I included some things I have found successful in my experiences with metallic thread, such as placing in a bowl next to the machine. I explain just a few different threads and when I might choose one of them and why. due to the upload issue with size of video clips I will try to post multiple short clips, rather than really long comprehensive ones.

River's cuddly things

2008-09-30T15:21:00.000-07:00

Whitework Quilt

2008-09-30T15:15:00.000-07:00

Finally!

2008-09-14T19:09:00.000-07:00

The tulle skirt portion is seamless and includes 12 layers of Bridal illusion over a base layer which is an altered version of McCalls 4109 Evening Elegance petticoat view D in a light satin and simple lining. This forms the underskirt and support and a bit of a waist-stay

The tulle was cut from a 50 yd bolt 120" /128"" wide in the following dimensions:
front:43"
sides:46"
back 50" for train

I cut the circle and slit out of the center of these layers of tulle after pinning them together to minimize shifting.

I used the typical math to determine the diameter so as to draw the circle with a string and pencil. This is in order to gather it at a 50/50 ratio and have it come out at the brides waist measurement.

diameter= circle circumference (twice the bride's waist measurement) divided by pi (3.14) or something like that.

When I was done with that part I cut a slit down from the back of that circle for accessing the zipper in the satin underskirt.

I didn't have a table big enough to cut the lengths in graduating fractions all the way around so my husband helped me pull a line off the waist and carefull mark and then cut all the way around to arrive at the final lengths all the way around.
So, you would divide the distance like from the front at 43" to the sides at 46" and determine what fractional increase every two inches you need to mark. Then do the same thing from the side point to the back and so on.

Since it is all one pinned together section of layers with no seam it is very important to pin everywhere with safety pins to keep it from getting completely out of whack.
Also when I layered those original 50 yards I cut them in lengths that covered the front and center and back total length. This is really important!!!
The tulle layers were already the correct width to cover the sides.

I stabilized the slit with satin ribbon and attached ribbons and loops to create a bustling mechanism and a pretty concealment for the slit and the zipper access area.
All of this is to be worn over the petticoat/slip in my other review

Vogue 2880

2008-09-14T18:05:00.000-07:00

Terri's Atelier

Butterick 5215

2012 Ice Storm Art

Gorgeous Pinks (Look at the SHOES!!!)

Completely cool vest!

Vogue 1107 finished.

Vogue 1107 Ball Buttons

Working on Vogue 1107

Butterick 3874

Mollie Parnis Dress 1969

S3433

Two more TDF Vintage from the sixties!!!

My latest obsessions! What I am sewing.

Butterick Retro Dress 5603

Pendulum Waves... And I can connect everything to sewing if I try hard enough...

A REDHEAD post.

Vogue 8723

The red dress.

Vogue Patterns: 8726 (Misses Dress)

Hummingbirds - Color Inspiration.

Altering Nicole Miller

My hens lay these eggs in various pastels.

Flower Tutorial (for embellishments)

Vogue 8723

Mini-Wardrobe Burda/Ottobre

Ottobre Cardigan Jacket

Following the Plaid Into the Pockets

I made the skirt!

Mini Wardrobe 2011

Why not have someone else sew for YOU for a change?

More Theoretical Plaid Matching for the Front Facings

Line Up!

Matching Plaids and My Current Project

My Singer Swing Needle 306K and Strangely Drawn To...

My Late Winter Sewing Plan

I had to embed the adorable video clip of these two singing...

Burda Finished Audrey Coat

Burda Petite Coat

Working on Burda Audrey Coat.

HP Camden Coat

Butterick 5285

Mohair Wrap

Unique Dress, Coat Sew-Along and Head-wraps.

Butterick 5399 and What I DO when I am not sewing... :-)

Coming Soon... Fall!

Colette Patterns 1001 Macaron dress

Simplicity 2475

Frequently-sewn-for drummer (one of my kids) - wins in contest division of beginner (less than 1 yr)!

Simplicity Pattern 2444

Butterick: 6582

Simplicity: 2508 (Project Runway Misses Coat)

McCall's: 5972 Dress and Vogue 7937 Skirt

Vogue Pattern 8626

Vogue skirt 7937

Ivory Flower Girl Dress

Eclissi - my new dress form:-)

Pacific Sandy Beach Walk Soap

My latest fabric creations...

Two Veils a story with tiers...

My first listing on Etsy!

2009 Lined Jacket Album

The leaves are turning…

Wardrobe Storyboard Fall 2009

WIP McCall Trench Coat

My Jacket Pocket Linings *Heart* Me:-)

Another HP Plain and Simple Pencil Skirt 1011

Marrakesh Drawstring Pants

Taking in the sides:-)

Hot Pattern’s Riviera Kiss Me Coat (Finally)

McCalls Dress-Shirt

Vintage Vogue Party Dress 1094

Vintage Vogue 1094 (1955)

McCall 2447

Butterick 5351

McCall 5232

Vintage Necchi Sewing Machine Manual 538-539

Let’s Explore a Vintage Dress!

Twirly Spring - Spring Fashion Contest - CraftStylish

Working On Stuff!

Ottobre Trench and Bird bag

My Jacket Pocket Linings Heart Me:-)